Big Girl Runway had the opportunity to sit down with Emmy Award winning make-up artist, Sandra Marshall. Sandra started her make-up career in her early twenties and spent 22 years at ABC. That is where she was the first woman make-up artist, first woman to be put on staff and the first woman to be appointed as Head of Makeup & Hair at a major TV station. Sandra went on to design the make-up and hair for five consecutive Academy Award shows and won an Emmy for the 63rd Academy Awards show. She also has an extensive list of movies on her resume, including: Beach Boys movie, Rat Pack movie, Freaky Friday, Hidalgo, Star Wars Nemesis Voyager, Constantine, The Others, Scorpion King and Star Trek Resurrection, to name a few. Sandra worked on TV shows such as: Married with Children, Deep Space Nine, Bay Watch, Voyager, the X Files, Hard Copy, The Leeza Show and many, many more. She has done make-up for a countless number of actors, actresses and celebrities such as: Madonna, Meryl Streep, Gwyneth Paltrow, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Jennifer Love-Hewitt, Tom Hanks, Johnny Carson, Christina Appplegate and so many more. Seriously, the list could fill many sheets of paper! Sandra even did President Nixon’s make-up! She now teaches make-up and does make-up for weddings and photo shoots.
Image & Make-up Tip from www.topmakeuplessons.com
Now here are some make-up tips from Sandra for all the curvy ladies out there!
Big Girl Runway: So, Sandra, what would you say is the one thing that curvy ladies have difficulty with, when it comes to their make-up?
Sandra Marshall: The biggest problem that curvy ladies have with their pretty faces is the fullness. Most curvy ladies would like to make their faces look like it has some definition. You must be careful, though, not to make anything on your face stand out too much. Every feature you accentuate should go together and flow. Less is better.
Big Girl Runway: What should ladies start with?
Sandra Marshall: Let’s start with the base; you’ll need to make sure your base matches your skin tone. The best place to test is on the forehead. That area is usually free of mixed pigmentation. If not, just find a clear area on your face — not your hand! The hand is exposed to many elements and is usually darker than your face. If you want to be brave and try to define your face, you’ll want to select another base that is two to three shades darker than the base for your skin match. The same goes for under the eyes and where you want to add a little highlight. The lighter colored base should be two to three shades lighter than the regular base.
Big Girl Runway: Now that we have our base coloring, what other supplies will the ladies out there need?
Sandra Marshall: I would suggest that you use a latex sponge for all your makeup base applications. You’ll also need a couple of brushes: A cheek color brush and an oval brush for the eyes. You may also want a flat brush or an eyeliner brush. An angled brush works well for liners and brows, as well.
Big Girl Runway: What is the next step?
Sandra Marshall: Now, you’re ready to start applying the makeup! I would suggest that you do the highlight and contour first and then cover with your base using a stippling motion, so you don’t move the hard work you did with the highlight and contour. Look at your face and decide where you’d like the contour to go. The contour is usually placed below the apple of the cheek, where you will put your cheek color, and it will run and fade into the hairline near your ears. If you do a half moon effect, that will give the illusion of definition. The half moon effect is like making a sideways upside down C-shape from your hairline down your cheek. If you don’t know where it is, a good way to tell is by opening your mouth and feeling the space between your teeth. That is the area where it should be placed.
Big Girl Runway: So, after the highlighting has been carefully placed and the contouring and base are set, what’s next?
Sandra Marshall: Next, you’ll want to set your makeup with a colorless loose powder to keep everything in place. Then, you can add your cheek color on the apple of the cheek and let it fade into the contouring below. Be careful to blend and not have any lines of demarcation. Also, one very important tip, that many women forget, please do not end your makeup base at the jaw line! Drag it down under the jaw line and fade it into the neck area.
Big Girl Runway: What should curvy ladies know about adding color to their cheeks?
Sandra Marshall: Select a neutral cheek color that is soft. I like to match the color to my wardrobe. It can be pink, rose or peach — just keep it light and lovely. A matte finish for us curvy gals works best.
Big Girl Runway: What’s next?
Sandra Marshall: I like to add some colorless powder to a puff and then go over the face with a pressing rolling motion to make sure all makeup is set. Then, I take a moist sea sponge and pat and roll that all over my face to fuse the base and powder together. That helps to take away the powdery look, which just adds a nice natural glow without being shiny. You can keep the puff in your purse inside a baggie for touch ups. If you feel a shine coming on, just take out your puff and do the patting rolling process, again.
Big Girl Runway: What tips do you have for the eyes?
Sandra Marshall: As far as the eyes are concerned, keep it natural for day and you can get a little more daring for night. Contour the eye with a nice earthy brown and not too much color on the lids. I recommend a nice subtle, smudged liner for daytime wear and a more definite liner for the evening. Don’t use too much mascara for day and make sure you start at the lash root bed with nice even upward strokes. You can use a spiral brush to get rid of any clumping that might occur. Make sure you keep the pointed q-tips handy for mistakes. In the evening, you can add to the mascara you’ve already applied for more intensity. If you are brave, you can try false eyelashes; but please make sure to keep them natural looking!
Big Girl Runway: What about eyebrows? Do you have any tips for the ladies about grooming their brows?
Sandra Marshall: Make sure your brows are well kept and shaped. Fill in the brows, if you need to; but always try to match the hair color of your brows to that of the hair color on your head.
Big Girl Runway: What advice would you give for lips and lip color?
Sandra Marshall: You can play up your beautiful lips, but don’t use too much lip-gloss or glitter. Again, nice pigmented lipsticks of earthy colors or even reds will work best for you. If you use liner, please use a lip brush to blend the lipstick you choose, into the lip liner. Now beautiful ladies, you’re ready to start your day! This may all seem like a lot; but with a little practice, you’ll get it down really quick. And remember to have fun!
Sandra Marshall with Sylvester Stallone & the late, Gregory Peck
Thank you so much, Sandra, for sitting down and talking with Big Girl Runway! For more information about Sandra or to reach her directly for make-up classes or to book her for an event, you can go to www.topmakeuplessons.com.
Always,
Erin
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